Govt. Reg: 143047/072/073 Phone: +977-1-4811067 Mobile: +9779818288444 +9779813449810
Govt. Reg: 143047/072/073 Phone: +977-1-4811067 Mobile: +9779818288444 +9779813449810

Mt. Makalu Expedition

Mt. Makalu is the world’s 5th highest mountain at the elevation of 8,464 meters (27,820ft.) It is located in the Mahalangur Himal 19 km north-east between Everest and Kanchenjunga on the Nepal-Tibet border. It is an isolated peak, looks like a perfect pyramid with sharp ridges on four sides and it makes the mountain more beautiful. It is considered one of the most challenging mountains in the world for climbing expedition.

We begin Mount Makalu Climbing expedition with a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (45 min). You will enjoy the incredible views and mountain scenery from the flight. Upon arrival at Tumlingtar airport, we begin our walk above the ARUN River valley past Sherpa settlements and forests enjoying views of Mount Chamlang Himalaya in the distance until we step on the base of the West Face at 5,800m. From the base of the West Face, we gently climb to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100m  to the right part of the ice-fall. The second section of the route stretches from the plateau above the icefall along 35 to 45-degree elevation’s rock up to 6,500m high. The next higher section is an ice-rock steep wall with 50 to 55 degrees inclination & extends up to 7,400 meters in elevation. The final section begins from 70 to 75-degree elevation’s rock pillar, leading to the west ridge at 8,000m. Though there are many routes on the mountain but we choose less-trodden, isolated route which leads to the beautiful Barun valley.

As we reach nearer to Makalu Base Camp at 4,800m, here we will find the terrain rocky with loose scree. At the base camp, we halt for two nights to acclimatize and make a side excursion around beautiful high grazing areas at the top of the Barun Glacier. From the base camp, we enjoy spectacular views of  Mount Everest (8,850m), Mount Lhotse (8,516m), Mount Makalu (8,463m), Mount Chamlang (7,319m) and Mount Baruntse 7,220m. After base camp, we walk up for almost seven hours over the moraine and boulder fields of the Barun Glacier until we reach Advanced Base Camp at 5,700m (ABC).  Here we spend most of our time. From Advanced Base Camp we ascend a steep ice-snow wall with fixed lines to reach Camp I. At Camp I, we spend 2 nights to make an acclimatization trip across the easy glacier to Camp II, 6,600m which is a small, flat sheltered area nearby some ice walls. BeyondCamp II, the climb is a technical part with open snow slope, which can be deep and prone to avalanches. There is also one more mixed section of rock and blue ice which leads up to the Makalu La at 7,450m. Before we reachCamp III at 7,400m, we have to walk 200 meters on flat terrain covered with ice. From Camp III, it takes us only 3 hours to reach Camp IV at 7,600m and this is the last spot for fixing a camp below the summit. On summit day, we climb over moderate glacial slopes up to the base of the French Couloir, a shallow 300m high gully of mixed rock bands and snow that leads to the summit. From the summit, we truly enjoy the panoramic view starting from Mount  Kanchenjunga in the east to uncountable peaks including  Mount Shishapangma of Tibet in the west.

  • Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel
  • Day 02: Briefing at Ministry of Tourism and expedition preparation
  • Day 03: Flight Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and drive to Num (1,560m/5,119ft)
  • Day 04: Trek Num to Sheduwa (1,500m/4,922ft)
  • Day 05: Sheduwa to Tashi Gaun(2,100m/6,890ft)
  • Day 06: Tashi Gaun rest day (2,100m/6,890ft)
  • Day 07: Trek Tashi Gaun to Khongma (3,500m/11,483ft)
  • Day 08: Trek Khongma to Dobato
  • Day 09: Trek Dobato to Yangle Kharka (3,557m/11,670ft)
  • Day 10: Trek Yangle Kharka to Langmale Kharka
  • Day 11: Langmale Kharka to Makalu Base camp (4,870m/15,978ft)
  • Day 12-15: Rituals prayer preparations and climbing training at Base camp (4,870m/15,978ft)
  • Day 16: Makalu Base Camp to ABC (Advance Base Camp)
  • Day 17-37: Climbing Period for Mt. Makalu 1(8,463m)
  • Day 38: Trek  back ABC to Base Camp
  • Day 39: Trek back Base Camp to Yangle kharka
  • Day 40: Trek back Yangle kharka to Mumbuk
  • Day 41: Trek back Mumbuk to Tashi Gaun
  • Day 42: Trek back Tashi gaun to Num
  • Day 43: Trek back Num to Tumlingtar
  • Day 44: Flight Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
  • Day 45: Free Day In Kathmandu
  • Day 46: Final departure

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: International and domestic airport transfers

HOTEL: 4 Nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast

WELCOME DINNER: A welcome dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu

DOMESTIC AIR: Both way domestic air tickets from Kathmandu-Tumlingter-Kathmandu

TRANSPORTATION: Land and air domestic transportation cost for our overall expedition crew for the entire expedition

CLIMBING ROYALTY: Climbing Royalty Charge by Nepal Government to climb Mount Makalu

ROUTE FIXING CHARGE: Summit route fixing charge

GARBAGE: Garbage disposal fee

MEALS: Breakfast, lunch and dinner with hot drinks: tea/coffee

LIAISON OFFICER: Government Liaison Officer

KITCHEN STAFFS: Experienced and well-trained base camp cook and kitchen helpers

PORTERS: Porters up to Base Camp and return from base camp

STAFF WAGES: Wages, equipment, food, accommodation and insurance for all involved staffs

PERSONAL BAGGAGE: Maximum 60kg per member

BASE CAMP TENT: North face, Kailas, Red Fox or any other branded tent and each expedition member will have an individual tent available at the base camp

BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT: Tents (dining, kitchen, toilet, hot shower, communication), mattress, pillow, table, chair and other necessary equipments

ELECTRICITY: Generator and solar panel for light and charging any electronic devices

HEATER: We will provide heater at the base camp for member and staff

COMMUNICATION: Walkie-talkie per member and climbing staff as required

SATELLITE-PHONE: Satellite phone available during your expedition (chargeable as per use)

MEDICAL SERVICE: First aid medical kit for the group

WEATHER FORECAST: Availability of the daily weather forecast during the entire expedition

GENERAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: EPI gas and gas burner, dynamic climbing rope, ice screws, snow shovel, snow bars, carabineer etc.

OXYGEN: O2 Poisk oxygen 2 bottles allocated for member and 1 bottle for each climbing Sherpa

MASK AND REGULATOR: Top Out or Summit mask regulator for each member and climbing Sherpa

BACKUP OXYGEN AND MASK REGULATOR: In case of emergencies, sufficient oxygen and mask regulator available at our Base camp (chargeable as per use)

CLIMBING SHERPA: One professional climbing Sherpa per member

CLIMBING SHERPA ALLOWANCE: Equipment that requires advance payment, daily wages and carrying bonus

EQUIPMENT ALLOWANCE FOR STAFF: Equipment allowance for base camp cook and kitchen helpers

RESCUE INSURANCE: Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing crew

FAREWELL DINNER: Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu

AIRFARE: International flight Airfare (from and to Kathmandu) 

ENTRY VISA: Nepali entry Visa fee US$ 40 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (US $100)

LUNCH AND DINNER: Lunch & dinner during your stay in Kathmandu hotel

FILMING: Special filming, camera and drone permit fee

INSURANCE: Travel insurance and high altitude insurance (accident, medical and heli rescue)

PERSONAL EXPENSES: Phone calls, internet, laundry, bar-bills,mineral water, personal shopping and tips

SUMMIT BONUS: Summit bonus for personal climbing Sherpa US $1700