MOUNT MAKALU EXPEDITION (8,464M)


Mt. Makalu is the world’s 5th highest mountain at the elevation of 8,464 meters (27,820ft.) It is located in the Mahalangur Himal 19 km north-east between Everest and Kanchenjunga on the Nepal-Tibet border. It is an isolated peak, looks like a perfect pyramid with sharp ridges on four sides and it makes the mountain more beautiful. It is considered one of the most challenging mountains in the world for climbing expedition.

We begin Mount Makalu Climbing expedition with a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (45 min.).You will enjoy the incredible views and mountain scenery from the flight. Upon arrival at Tumlingtar airport, we begin our walk above the ARUN River valley past Sherpa settlements and forests enjoying views of Mount Chamlang Himalaya in the distance until we step on the base of the West Face at 5,800m. From the base of the West Face, we gently climb to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100m  to the right part of the ice-fall. The second section of the route stretches from the plateau above the icefall along 35 to 45-degree elevation’s rock up to 6,500m high. The next higher section is an ice-rock steep wall with 50 to 55 degrees inclination & extends up to 7,400 meters in elevation. The final section begins from 70 to 75-degree elevation’s rock pillar, leading to the west ridge at 8,000 m. Though there are many routes on the mountain but we choose less-trodden, isolated route which leads to the beautiful Barun valley.

As we reach nearer to Makalu Base Camp at 4800m, here we will find the terrain rocky with loose scree. At the base camp, we halt for two nights to acclimatize and make a side excursion around beautiful high grazing areas at the top of the Barun Glacier. From the base camp, we enjoy spectacular views of  Mount Everest (8850m), Mount Lhotse (8516m), Mount Makalu (8463m), Mount Chamlang (7319m) and Mount Baruntse 7220m. After base camp, we walk up for almost seven hours over the moraine and boulder fields of the Barun Glacier until we reach Advanced Base Camp at 5700m (ABC).  Here we spend most of our time. From Advanced Base Camp we ascend a steep ice-snow wall with fixed lines to reach Camp I. At Camp I, we spend 2 nights to make an acclimatization trip across the easy glacier to Camp II, 6600m which is a small, flat sheltered area nearby some ice walls. BeyondCamp II, the climb is a technical part with open snow slope, which can be deep and prone to avalanches. There is also one more mixed section of rock and blue ice which leads up to the Makalu La at 7450m. Before we reachCamp III at 7400m, we have to walk 200 meters on flat terrain covered with ice. From Camp III, it takes us only 3 hours to reach Camp IV at 7600m and this is the last spot for fixing a camp below the summit. On summit day, we climb over moderate glacial slopes up to the base of the French Couloir, a shallow 300m high gully of mixed rock bands and snow that leads to the summit. From the summit, we truly enjoy the panoramic view starting from Mount  Kanchenjunga in the east to uncountable peaks including  Mount Shishapangma of Tibet in the west.

Share Button
Day 01: Arrival kathmandu and transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Briefing at Ministry of Tourism and expedition preparation
Day 03: Flight Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and drive to Num (1560m/5,119ft)
Day 04: Trek Num to Sheduwa (1500m/4,922ft)
Day 05: Sheduwa to Tashi Gaun(2100m/6,890ft)
Day 06: Tashi Gaun rest day (2100m/6,890ft)
Day 07: Trek Tashi Gaun to Khongma (3500m/11,483ft)
Day 08: Trek Khongma to Dobato
Day 09: Trek Dobato to Yangle Kharka (3557m/11,670ft)
Day 10: Trek Yangle Kharka to Makalu Base camp (4870m/15,978ft)
Day 11: Rest day at Base camp (4870m/15,978ft)
Day 12: Makalu Base Camp to ABC
Day 13-44: Climbing Period for Mt. Makalu 1(8463m)
Day 45: Trek  back ABC to Base Camp
Day 46: Trek back Base Camp to Yangle kharka
Day 47: Trek back Yangle kharka to Mumbuk
Day 48: Trek back Mumbuk to Tashi Gaun
Day 49: Trek back Tashi gaun to Num
Day 50: Trek back Num to Tumlingtar
Day 51: Flight Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
Day 52: Free Day In Kathmandu
Day 53: Departure
01: ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: Pick up and drop off services for both international & domestic flights as per the itinerary
02: HOTEL ACCOMMODATION: 4 nights Hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast basis
03: WELCOME DINNER: A welcome dinner with Office Staff in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu
04: DOMESTIC AIR: Both way domestic air tickets from Kathmandu-Tumlingter-Kathmandu with airport tax
05: TRANSPORTATION: Land and air domestic transportation cost for our overall expedition crew for the entire expedition
06: CLIMBING PERMIT: Expedition Royalty and Climbing Permit Charge by Nepal Government to climb Mount Makalu
07: ROUTE FIXING CHARGE: Summit route fixing charge
08: TRASH: Garbage deposit fee
09: MEALS: Fresh Meals on full board (Breakfast+Lunch+Dinner) with Hot Drinks/ Tea/ Coffee, fresh meat and fresh vegetable
10: LIAISON OFFICER: Government Liaison officer and his daily wages, equipment, food, insurance and transportation
11: COOK AND KITCHEN HELPERS: Experienced and well-trained base camp cook and Kitchen helpers
12: PORTERS: Porters up to the Base Camp and return from the base camp
13: STAFF WAGES: All wages, equipment, food, accommodation and insurance for all staffs in trekking and expedition
14: MEMBER PERSONAL BAGGAGE: Maximum sixty kilograms per member as a personal baggage
15: BASE CAMP TENT: North face, Kailas, Red Fox or any other branded tent and each expedition member will have an individual tent available at the base camp
16: BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT: Dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, hot shower tent, communication tent , mattress, pillow, table, chair and other required equipment
17: ELECTRICITY: Generator and solar panel for light or charging any electronic devices
18: HEATER: We will provide heater at the base camp for a member and staff
19: COMMUNICATION: Walkie-talkie per member and climbing staff as required
20: SATELLITE-PHONE: Satellite phone available during your expedition (chargeable as per use)
21: MEDICAL SERVICE: First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
22: WEATHER FORECAST: Availability of the daily weather forecast during the entire expedition
23: GENERAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: EPI gas and gas burner, dynamic climbing rope, ice screws, snow shovel, snow bars, carabineer etc.
24: OXYGEN: O2 Poisk oxygen 2 bottles allocated for member and 1 bottles for each climbing Sherpa
25: MASK AND REGULATOR: Top Out or Summit mask regulator for each member and climbing Sherpa
26: BACKUP OXYGEN AND MASK REGULATOR: In case of emergencies, sufficient oxygen and mask regulator available at our Base camp
27: CLIMBING SHERPA: One professional climbing Sherpa per member
28: CLIMBING SHERPA ALLOWANCE: Equipment that requires advance payment, daily wages and carrying bonus
29: EQUIPMENT ALLOWANCE FOR STAFF: Equipment allowance for base camp cook and kitchen helpers
30: RESCUE INSURANCE: Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing guide, cook and staff
31: FAREWELL DINNER: Farewell dinner with expedition staff in a Nepali typical restaurant with cultural show in Kathmandu
01: ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: Pick up and drop off services for both international & domestic flights as per the itinerary
02: HOTEL ACCOMMODATION: 4 nights Hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast basis
03: WELCOME DINNER: A welcome dinner with Office Staff in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu
04: DOMESTIC AIR: Both way domestic air tickets from Kathmandu-Tumlingter-Kathmandu with airport tax
05: TRANSPORTATION: Land and air domestic transportation cost for our overall expedition crew for the entire expedition
06: CLIMBING PERMIT: Expedition Royalty and Climbing Permit Charge by Nepal Government to climb Mount Makalu
07: TRASH: Garbage deposit fee
08: MEALS: Fresh Meals on full board (Breakfast+Lunch+Dinner) with Hot Drinks/ Tea/ Coffee, fresh meat and fresh vegetable
09: LIAISON OFFICER: Government Liaison officer and his daily wages, equipment, food, insurance and transportation
10: COOK AND KITCHEN HELPERS: Experienced and well-trained base camp cook and Kitchen helpers
11: PORTERS: Porters up to the Base Camp and return from the base camp
12: STAFF WAGES: All wages, equipment, food, accommodation and insurance for all staffs in trekking and expedition
13: MEMBER PERSONAL BAGGAGE: Maximum sixty kilograms per member as a personal baggage
14: BASE CAMP TENT: North face, Kailas, Red Fox or any other branded tent and each expedition member will have an individual tent available at the base camp
15: BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT: Dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, hot shower tent, communication tent , mattress, pillow, table, chair and other required equipment
16: ELECTRICITY: Generator and solar panel for light or charging any electronic devices
17: HEATER: We will provide heater at the base camp for a member and staff
18: COMMUNICATION: Walkie-talkie per member and climbing staff as required
19: SATELLITE-PHONE: Satellite phone available during your expedition (chargeable as per use)
20: MEDICAL SERVICE: First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
21: WEATHER FORECAST: Availability of the daily weather forecast during the entire expedition
22: GENERAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: EPI gas and gas burner, dynamic climbing rope, ice screws, snow shovel, snow bars, carabineer etc.
23: BACKUP OXYGEN AND MASK REGULATOR: In case of emergencies, sufficient oxygen and mask regulator available at our Base camp
24: EQUIPMENT ALLOWANCE FOR STAFF: Equipment allowance for base camp cook and kitchen helpers
25: RESCUE INSURANCE: Helicopter rescue insurance for cook and kitchen staff
26: FAREWELL DINNER: Farewell dinner with expedition staff in a Nepali typical restaurant with cultural show in Kathmandu
01: AIRFARE: International flight Airfare (from and to Kathmandu) 
02: ENTRY VISA: Nepali entryVisa fee US$ 40 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (US $100)
03: LUNCH AND DINNER: Lunch & dinner during your stay in Kathmandu hotel
04: FILMING: Special filming, camera and Drone permit fee
05: INSURANCE: Travel and high altitude insurance, accident, medical and emergency evacuation
06: PERSONAL EXPENSES: Personal climbing gears, alcoholic beverages and laundry  during the trekking and expedition 

07: EXTRA: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary
08: TIPS: Tips for base camp staff 
09: SUMMIT BONUS:
 Summit bonus for personal climbing Sherpa US $....
Trip Dates Group Size Available Space Book Now

 

Note : If the above itinerary does not meet your needs, wishes, itinerary can be customized as per your requirement.
Contact us